This was the part of the trip I was the most excited about. Before going to Scotland, I browsed TONS of pictures of the Isle of Skye. It really looked like fairyland or something, the landscapes were so gorgeous. And I must say I wasn’t disappointed on that point! If you guys go to Scotland someday, definitely go to Skye, it is absolutely amazing. I’m quite sad we couldn’t go to many places on the isle, but the few we’ve been to were really worth it. Moreover, this means we have to go back there for the Black Cullin, Neist Point, Fairy Pools, Faerie Glen, Claigan Coral Beach, etc. hehe. There are so much to see on Skye!
Our biggest handicap was that we visited the isle on the weekend and there really are not many buses. There are like 4 buses a day for each line and there are places that you can’t access by bus (or you have to walk for hours from the bus station before arriving), so it’s not very practical. I’d definitely recommend you to rent a car when at Skye, it’s a bit expensive but it’s way more convenient!
We leaved Fort William early in the afternoon and took the bus to Portree, the biggest city on Skye. It took us like 3h to arrive I think? I can’t really remember, but it was quite long. Thankfully, the landscapes, as always, were wonderful.
When at Portree, we stayed at the Cooling View B&B. The place is nice and clean, we could see the harbour from our room. It’s pretty cute actually, but the room was very very cold, even though the heating was on.
Our 2 destinations for the day were Quiraing and Old Man of Storr. Both are on the north of Skye.
Quiraing is a landslip accessible with the bus services 57C, 57A and 60X, by stopping at Staffin. You have to walk quite a while though before arriving at the foot of the landslip. There are something like 2 miles to walk.
Quiraing far off
We couldn’t afford that. As we had to catch the bus to Old Man of Storr later, the timing was too short. So we just had a walk around Staffin and went on the bay. We saw a lot of sheeps and even some angus there! It was pretty fun, even if we were quite scared of being attacked by a ram haha.
The view was very cool anyway and the air refreshing. The place is really lovely.
Staffin Bay trees
Then we took the bus to Old Man of Storr. It was the same bus than the one for Quiraing, but in the other direction.
Climbing the Storr was the most memorable part of our 2 weeks, it was pretty intense. The Storr is a rocky hill, half way between Quiraing and Portree. It’s a very impressive place. I think the weather was part of that, but still. When we were at the foot of the hill, we couldn’t even see the top, the Old Man of Storr (a high sea stack of sandstone) was hiden by the fog. It was such a beauty. It has such a mystical dimension, it was so irresistible to see what was up there.
So we started to climb. The way was muddy, the rain was starting to fall, the wind was rising, but it was ok. About 15 minutes later, boyfriend told me to look back. And wow, what a view. It was sincerely the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. The landscapes and the weather made us feel a little like in the Middle-earth haha. Boyfriend even sang the Misty Mountains Cold song. That was pretty sweet. Every 5 minutes, we were stopping and looking back and around. It was so beautiful. And so sad at the same time, as the trees of the hill were all burnt off. It was dead wood everywhere.
Then when we arrived half way, it started to rain and hail hard, it was very windy and I had difficulties to keep my balance. As it was getting a little too risky for me, we decided to go down. Boyfriend wanted to carry on climbing, but the weather really wasn’t working in our favour.
I was pretty sad that we had to stop, I really wish we could see the top. But I think we made the right choice and we’ve never been so happy about catching the bus haha. We were exhausted and freezing, our clothes were totally drenched and our shoes and trousers covered of mud.
When we came back to the B&B, we slipped between the sheets, had tomato soup and watched some Doctor Who TV show. After such adventures, we needed some casual haha.
We wanted to visit the Dunvegan Castle gardens, as the castle is closed in winter, but the bus driver told us that the gardens were closed too. Well. Fail haha. So we just walked around Portree before the next bus to Inverness. We had some tea, we did shopping (I bought a super cool lambwool tartan scarf there), we had lunch… Nothing very exciting actually. Oh talking about eating, you guys must know that many pubs in Portree don’t serve food in winter, even though they still present a menu outside (which is quite silly…).
Portree colourful houses
We had lunch at the Caledonian Café, a really nice place. I really liked the atmosphere. And I really liked the food too! We ordered some garlic bread and baked potatoes. I had one with a Coronation chicken filling and it was delicious. It’s chicken with a curry sauce and dried grapes, divine. I’m a huge fan of sweet and savoury and of curry, so it was perfect. Boyfriend had a chicken, bacon and mayonnaise filling. Not bad (but I rather like mine huhu). The meal came with a salad, which is very appreciable. Moreover, the price was reasonnable, less than £8 if I remember well. So, you got it, I recommend this place.
We didn’t spend a lot of time on Skye the second day, as we had to take the bus to Inverness, but it was very enjoyable. The only bad point would be that after 5:00 pm, you can’t eat anywhere for a reasonnable price, the snacks are closed and the pubs don’t serve food. Our dinners were bought at the Co-operative Food (a grocery chain), as the sea food restaurants were out of budget. So it’s been 3 days that we didn’t have real dinner… Can’t wait to arrive at Inverness!